Baja Mexico Travel Guide: Tijuana, Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe
Seeking adventure south of the border? Well, our Baja Mexico Travel Guide covers everything from your border crossing in Tijuana to Rosarito, Ensenada, and then inland to Valle de Guadalupe! We’ll take you to our favorite spots for street tacos, cervezas, and incredible Baja wines.
In addition, we’ve also included accommodations, activities, and tips for driving throughout the region. So, let’s vámonos!
5 Things to Do Before You Go
1. Practice Your Spanish
As with traveling to any foreign country, you should familiarize yourself with the local language. Yes, many people will speak enough English to help you out. And you can use Google Translate. However, if you’re traveling off the beaten path, you may not be as lucky.
Therefore, we use Duolingo daily to keep us speaking Spanish on the regular. You can download Duolingo for free to your phone, and learn quickly with just 10 minutes of practice a day!
Ordering street tacos and cervezas in Baja will be much easier if you speak a little Spanish!
2. Pack Your Passport, Sentri, or Global Entry
Traveling in Baja Mexico comes with a few challenges. But first, make sure you have a valid passport. And your Global Entry or SENTRI card. If you are within a few months of the expiration of either your passport, Global Entry, or SENTRI, reapply before you leave.
What are the benefits of registering for Global Entry or Sentri for travel to Mexico? If you drive, you can use the Sentri lanes when crossing back from Mexico into the U.S. If you fly, you can use TSA-Pre. This can translate into a big time saver if you’re driving or flying home on a busy day. How big? 10 minutes to cross the border vs. 3 hours stuck waiting in line!
3. Buy Travel Insurance
This blog is geared to those driving across the border from either San Ysidro, Otay Mesa, or Tecate border crossings. And, when we drive to Mexico, we always get auto insurance for our car. Why? Because your U.S. or Canadian car insurance will not cover any accidents or theft in Mexico. And you can be arrested if you get in an accident and you do not have insurance, even if it’s not your fault.
Therefore, we use Baja Bound as it’s simple, easy, and inexpensive to pick up car insurance for Mexico for both short and long trips!
If you’re flying, you can always purchase travel insurance to cover your entire trip. In addition, this can be added to your ticket price through the airline you’ve booked, like Volaris or AeroMexico.
4. Check With Your Bank + Cell Phone Carrier
Most Visas, Mastercards, and cell phone carriers will allow you to continue using your cards and your cell phone plan while in Mexico. This includes talk, text, and data for your cell. However, to avoid any extra charges, or have a hold placed on a credit or ATM card, check in with your bank, the main credit card you will use, and your cell phone carrier before departing.
Often you will need to turn on roaming to allow for connection to Telcel or Movistar. In addition, check to make sure the place you are staying at offers wifi. Then, you can connect easily to send emails or browse the web.
Make sure you have pesos on hand, especially at street taco carts!
5. Exchange Dollars for Mexican Pesos
Before we roll out, we always make sure to have some Mexican pesos on hand. Typically $20 U.S. worth or 400 pesos. Why? First, and most importantly, you will need to carry cash to pay tolls on the drive south.
If you are driving south from San Diego to Ensenada on the toll road, which is significantly faster than the free road (more on this in a bit), you will need about $10 US to get there. The toll plazas will take American dollars, but do not expect to receive change in U.S. dollars. And, wait for them to give you a receipt before you drive away. Lastly, do not expect a friendly smile if you roll up with a $20 or larger bill.
The exchange rate between the Mexican peso and the U.S. dollar is about 20 to 1. It does fluctuate, so check out the current exchange rate before leaving, and try to pick up some pesos before you go.
Driving to Baja Mexico
Crossing the U.S. – Mexico Border
From either the 5 or 805 South, you can reach the border and enter Tijuana. You’ll need to head further inland if you want to cross into Tecate. The border wait times on the U.S. side are fairly short. Unless it’s a Friday afternoon or holiday weekend. In addition to driving, you can also walk across the border into Tijuana fairly easily. And, this would be the preferred method if you are only visiting Tijuana, as you can hop in a cab after crossing to take you just about anywhere in TJ.
As you drive across, you will pass through 2 checkpoints, and then enter onto a highway in Tijuana. 99% of the time you will not be stopped, nor need to show any paperwork as you cross. However, if you do get directed into Secondary, a secondary screening, follow the officer’s directions of where to park and remain in your vehicle until given instructions.
Once you successfully cross the border, getting out of Tijuana can be challenging. Therefore, map your route to your Baja destination in advance. And pay attention to the highways you will need to exit onto after you cross the border. Having a navigator in the car is also quite helpful!
If you are heading into Tijuana proper, bound for Revolucion Boulevard, or the Zona Rio, you will exit quickly onto the streets of Tijuana. However, if you are heading towards destinations such as Rosarito Beach, Valle de Guadalupe, or Ensenada, you will stay in the 2nd from the right lane and follow signs for Playas de Tijuana, Rosarito, Ensenada or 1D, the Ensenada Cuota (toll road). Upon exiting, the highway will take you west and slightly north, along the border wall.
As you cross the border into Mexico, make sure you already know which roads you need to take to reach your destination.
Visiting the U.S. – Mexico Border Wall
If you’ve never seen the U.S.- Mexico border wall, this is where you’ll first get a good glimpse of it. Many who travel with us have taken photos of the border wall from the back seat of our car as we wind through TJ, but keep in mind, that this is not a tourist attraction. And, there is absolutely no room to pull over on the road to Ensenada.
If you want to see, touch, and take photos in front of the U.S.- Mexico border wall, plan a side trip before crossing to Friendship Park in Border Field State Park on the U.S. side.
Back to driving! Within minutes of driving alongside the U.S.-Mexico border wall, you will climb a small hill, and on the descent, there will be a fork in the road. You will stay in the right lane, and head for Rosarito, Playas Tijuana, and Ensenada. After a few minutes, there will be another slight turn to take the toll road, Ensenada Cuota, the 1D. Unless you are bound for Playas Tijuana, take the toll road. The coast will then come into view and you will begin the journey south, finally!
When packing for your trip to Baja, think casual, and be prepared for lots of walking.
What to Pack for Baja Mexico Travel
Besides the passports and pesos, what else should you pack for your Baja Mexico trip? Well, if you’re camping, Clam Beach or Playa Saldamando are the best spots! Also, you can refer to our Camping Road Trip Checklist for a printable PDF of what to pack! Here’s a quick list of other essentials:
- Flip-flops: nothing fancy, you may end up walking on dirt or gravel roads, or leaving them on the beach when you swim
- Board shorts and bathing suits
- Jeans, the sweatpants look is less popular here
- Hoodie or sweater, it gets chilly in the evenings, especially along the coast
- Everything you need for surfing, including surf wax. Surf shops are hard to come by in Baja.
- Leave all the fancy jewels at home. Expensive purses, big diamond rings, and even flashy cars indicate that you are indeed a tourist.
6 of the Best Places to Explore During Your Baja Mexico Trip
In this section, we’ll cover our favorite spots to eat, stay, and play in Northern Baja.
1. Tijuana
Tijuana used to be a very popular destination for those under 21, or for tourists looking to snap a photo with the donkey painted like a zebra on the corner of Revolucion Avenue. However, nowadays, there is less foot traffic crossing for cheap tequila, vanilla, Kahlua, or Mexican blankets.
Instead, more visitors are crossing to enjoy the hottest new restaurant by Chef Javier Plascencia, or take in a Tijuana Xolos Futbol match, aka soccer.
Some of our favorite stops in Tijuana:
- Caesar’s: A stop along Revolucion is not complete without a cocktail or legit Ceasar salad prepared tableside at ‘the home of the Ceasar salad’
- Las Ahumaderas: aka Taco Alley, made famous by Chef Anthony Bourdain. Come hungry, and with lots of pesos!
- Verde y Crema: Located on Revolucion, a favorite place for tapas and Baja wines
- Border Psycho Brewery: Great craft beer selection. Not to be confused with Border X Brewery, which is in Barrio Logan.
- Cafe Saverious: The latest creation from Chef Javier Plascencia
- Telefonica Gastro Park: The best eats and drinks all in one hip spot!
- Sospeso: The best coffee roaster, and off the beaten path, so they cater more to upscale Tijuana residents than tourists
A bit hard to find, but worth the trek to Las Ahumederas for some of the best street tacos in TJ.
2. Rosarito Beach
As you begin your journey south you’ll pass Baja Malibu, home to a great surf break, and then reach the first touristy beach town of Rosarito. Take one of the last exits in Rosarito, and from here you can see the Rosarito Beach Hotel towering over the coastline.
In Rosarito, you will find a nice section of shops, bars, beach clubs, and restaurants! Besides bars serving up margaritas, chips, and guac, there is a fantastic steakhouse, El Nido that we stop at any time we’re in town.
Rosarito Ensenada Bike Ride
Another reason we travel to Rosarito each year? The Rosarito Ensenada Bike Ride! This is not a race, although years past may have proven otherwise when I was in ‘race shape’.
Rosarito Ensenada is a 50-mile fun bicycle ride. It begins in Rosarito, and makes its way south along the coast, then turns inland to climb El Tigre, and finally descends down into Ensenada.
At the finish line, you are treated to a fiesta with food, music, vendors, and of course your finisher’s medal. Then, once you can’t drink any more Tecates, catch a ride back to the start, or to your accommodations, with a taxi or shuttle driver.
We often have someone in our group who does not want to ride, so they’ll drive to Ensenada and meet us at the fiesta to shuttle us back.
The Rosarito Ensenada bike ride is classified as moderately difficult, but we have friends who have ridden it on mountain bikes, beach cruisers, and some carrying a full cooler of beer! It’s typically held twice a year, in May around Cinco de Mayo, and then again in September. There’s still plenty of time to register!
Hanging out after a surf session at Baja Malibu, waiting on my tacos and Tecate!
3. Popotla
A quick drive south on the free road from Rosarito is a little artisan area called Popotla. Here you will find our favorite market, Mercado Del Mar. They have some of the best selections of tequila, mezcal, and local Baja wines in their almost hidden wine cave. We think this setup dates back to the years of prohibition!
Popotla is also a great place to stop if you want to purchase clay pottery, tiles, or have iron or woodwork done. In addition, the small fishing village, Puerto Popotla is still just as charming as ever. More so than its infamous neighbor, Puerto Nuevo. Why? You can still find fisherman pulling their small boats right up on the beach! And, you can purchase fish right off their boat. They’ll even prepare it for you if you want to sit at one of the small tables on the beach and enjoy a cerveza while you wait!
To get here, make a right under the large white arch, just south of Baja Studios, where the Titanic, Pearl Harbor, and the new Point Break were filmed! Dining in Popotla includes Tapanco, another incredible steakhouse, and then TrentaQuattro, a pizza place with tables right on the ocean.
The coastline of Baja is 760 miles long, so be ready to spend lots of time outside watching the sunset over the Pacific Ocean.
4. Las Gaviotas and Puerto Nuevo
Las Gaviotas
Not a town in Baja Norte, but Las Gaviotas is often where we stay when we head south of the border. Why? Las Gaviotas is an ex-pat community of dozens of Spanish colonial-style homes, complete with security, a private beach, pool, jacuzzi, and a stellar surf break. You can find oceanview homes for rent on Baja Pro, Airbnb, or Vrbo.
A bit further north from Gaviotas, another great spot to rent a home or condo is at Club Marena! And, as you may have guessed, there’s a great surf break right out front near K38! Got questions about accommodations or safety while traveling in Baja? Email us! We stay in Baja several times a year.
Pro tip: Leave your pets at home. The downside to Gaviotas and Club Marena is that you cannot bring pets unless you are an owner, or get the owner’s permission. So, Lucy has to stay home. But, the convenience of staying in a 3-bedroom house on the beach in Baja with friends, often for as little as $100/night? And you can walk to surf every morning and again at sunset? We’ll take it.
Puerto Nuevo
What once was a small fishing village where California spiny lobsters were brought up by the boatload, Puerto Nuevo is now more of a tourist trap. There are still several restaurants that serve lobster, plus lots of souvenir shops. But honestly, we have spent more time in the newly installed Calimax up the road from Puerto Nuevo as of late. Pro tip: This Calimax is definitely one of the largest grocery stores on the coast between Rosarito and Ensenada!
With so many options for accommodations with an ocean view, like here at Club Marena, it’s worth spending a night or two.
5. Ensenada
Continuing south on the 1 from Puerto Nuevo will bring you to the port of Ensenada. If you need a bite to eat on the way, want to stretch your legs, or hop in the ocean, stop first in La Fonda. This 1970’s era hotel, bar, restaurant, and beach break has hosted everyone from high-end Hollywood celebrities to van-life surf rats.
As you continue south, you’ll see and smell the fishing port of Ensenada. In addition, you will find the famed seafood market stalls where Chef Anthony Bourdain dined on the best fish tacos on the planet! Bring your appetite for fresh octopus, oysters, and ceviche that taste as if it were pulled from the sea that morning. And most likely, it was.
Don’t forget to pair your meals with local craft beers, or wines from Mexico’s wine country a few miles away in the Valle de Guadalupe. Here are a few places to get you started in Ensenada:
- Cerveceria Agua Mala is a cleverly designed brewery housed inside shipping containers! And, their menu is inspired by Chef Drew Deckman (see below for more on Drew’s place in the Valle!)
- Wendlandt Cerveceria is located not far from Agua Mala, you’ll find both a brewpub and tasting room
- Ophelia’s is a beautiful little artisan-styled restaurant serving local everything
- Cafe Toya is located in the same parking lot as Ophelias and a great place for a coffee or pastry
- Tacos Lily has the BEST Fish tacos at Mercado Nergo, where inside you can also buy fresh seafood
- La Guerrerense, just a few blocks away from the Mercado, this taco cart is anything but ordinary. At the helm is Sabina Bandera, a world-renowned creator of extraordinary seafood dishes!
- Hussong’s Cantina, the oldest bar in Baja, is filled with locals and tourists alike!
Bring your appetite for seafood to Ensenada, and try new things from each stand!
6. Valle de Guadalupe: La Ruta Del Vino
I wrote an entire blog on why I love Baja’s Valle de Guadalupe. I travel here more often than I visit any other wine region combined. Why? For the same reasons, I visit the rest of Mexico. The winemakers and restauranteurs are humble, inviting, independent, and unique!
As you rumble down the washboard roads, often following a handmade sign that, hopefully, directs you to the vineyard of your choosing, you may begin to question if this was a good idea. Sprawling hills covered in grapevines roll out before you. Tiny taco stands along with those selling fresh local honey, avocados, and olives dot the main roads.
But then, you turn into a dirt parking lot and stroll up to a gorgeous oasis in the cactus-studded desert. Think Palm Springs mixed with the Rioja region of Spain. Mid-century modern and minimalist architecture combined with farmhouse chic. Wild Baja, somehow tamed in neat rows of olive groves and cage-free piglets in the Campestre. The Valle de Guadalupe is the finest farm-to-table you could imagine. Perhaps the envy of U.S. restauranteurs and hoteliers who have been trying and often failing to master this simple yet elegant experience.
The rustic entrance to Chef Javier Plascencia’s Finca Altozano in Valle de Guadalupe does not prepare you for what’s to come!
Getting There: Driving to Baja’s Wine Country
To get to Valle de Guadalupe, start your journey inland from the coast at La Misión or La Fonda. Or, head northeast out of Ensenada on Route 3. You can also begin your journey in Tecate to reach Valle Guadalupe.
Where to Eat in Valle de Guadalupe
- Fauna at Bruma Think organic luxury with Chef David Castro Hussong creating sophisticated dishes with local ingredients.
- Finca Altozano A Chef Javier Plascencia establishment…order anything off the grill!
- Deckman’s en el Morgor Michelin Star Chef Drew Deckman creates a one-of-a-kind meal in a farmhouse setting. Even the kitchen is outside!
- Cuatro Cuatros Overlooking Salsipuedes Bay, Cuatro Cuatros wins for the best place to surprise and delight your eyes…and your palate. It’s also a great place for date night!
Wander around most restaurants in the Valle and you will find the farm where they grow almost all the grapes for wine, livestock for meat and dairy, and all the produce that you’ll be enjoying at lunch or dinner.
Where to Drink Wine in Baja
Baja’s wine country is now home to almost 200 wineries! Here you can treat your palate to the finest Nebbiolo, Syrah, Chenin Blanc, or Cab Franc. Winemakers here can comfortably go head-to-head with the great vineyards of Napa and Bordeaux. Here’s a very small list of where we typically stop to sample Baja’s finest wines:
From wine tasting to meals, you’ll be dining al fresco. Come hungry, and try a few new things from each menu!
Where to Sleep in the Valle
Planning to stay in Valle de Guadalupe for a couple of days? Road trips can always be extended, and there are plenty of beautifully crafted villas, B&Bs, and uniquely designed living quarters that will make it easy to say yes. Here are a few we love:
Resource Guide: Baja Mexico Travel Made Easy
We hope this gives you lots of ideas on how to visit Baja for a day. But we recommend lingering a bit longer. We’ve barely scratched the surface of what’s possible, so we’ve included even more resources below!
Surfing: Want more tips on surfing in Baja? A must-read is The Surfer’s Guide to Baja by Mike Parise.
Rock Climbing: We have also found great rock climbing in Baja! The two spots we love are Valle Azteca, near La Misión, and then the climbing and camping at Guadalupe Canyon Oasis.
Border Crossings: What You Can and Cannot Bring Home from Baja
Want to read more about visiting Baja’s Valle de Guadalupe? Our latest blog has all the details. And here are a few articles we love:
- Your Next Big Mexico Trip is a Drive Across the Border– Conde Nast Traveler
- An Unexpected Wine Sanctuary in Baja California– New York Times
- The West’s New Hottest Wine Region is South of the Border– Sunset Magazine
Loved this and want more travel tips for road trips and camping? Check out the rest of our blog posts. Until next time, adios amigos!
Meredith McConvill
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